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Looking at my reflection, I can see myself in oversized gilded pantaloons, visible just for my eyes. Children sit in a water feature acting as ocean creatures, while adjacent resides a speaking vegetable in a exhibition box, alongside a tall stack of mattresses. This is the universe of Hans Christian Andersen (1805-1875), a leading 19th century’s highly cherished authors. I’m in Odense, on the island of the island of Fyn in the south of this Nordic country, to investigate the author's timeless impact in his native city 150 years after his death, and to discover a couple of fairytales of my own.

The Museum: H.C. Andersen's House

HC Andersens Hus is the local cultural center celebrating the author, including his childhood house. A curator states that in previous versions of the museum there was minimal emphasis on Andersen’s stories. His personal history was studied, but The Ugly Duckling were missing. For tourists who come to Odense in search of fairytale wonder, it was a little lacking.

The redesign of the city center, redirecting a major road, made it possible to reimagine how the local celebrity could be honored. A prestigious architectural challenge awarded the architects from Japan the Kengo Kuma team the contract, with the museum's fresh perspective at the center of the design. The unique wood-paneled museum with interwoven spiralling spaces debuted to much acclaim in 2021. “We have attempted to build a place where we move beyond simply describing the author, but we speak in the manner of him: with comedy, irony and perspective,” explains the expert. The outdoor spaces embrace this concept: “It’s a garden for explorers and for large beings, it's created to give you a sense of smallness,” he explains, an objective accomplished by strategic landscaping, playing with height, scale and many winding paths in a deceptively small space.

The Writer's Legacy

He authored multiple memoirs and regularly changed his story. The exhibition adopts this philosophy seriously; frequently the opinions of his friends or snippets of correspondence are shown to politely doubt the writer's personal account of events. “Andersen is the storyteller, but he’s not reliable,” notes the curator. The result is a engaging swift exploration of Andersen’s life and art, mental approaches and favorite tales. It is thought-provoking and whimsical, for mature visitors and youngsters, with a additional lower-level make-believe land, Ville Vau, for the smallest guests.

Exploring Odense

Back in the real world, the small city of the municipality is picturesque, with stone-paved roads and traditional Danish homes colored in cheerful shades. The author's presence is all around: the traffic lights feature the author with his iconic characteristic hat, bronze footmarks provide a free pedestrian route, and there’s a outdoor exhibition too. Annually in August this dedication reaches its height with the yearly storytelling event, which celebrates the writer's impact through creativity, performance, theatre and musical performances.

During my visit, the week-long celebration had hundreds of events, many were without charge. During my time in this place, I come across painted stilt-walkers, ghoulish monsters and an author double narrating adventures. I experience contemporary performances and observe an amazing evening show featuring acrobatic dancers coming down from the town hall and hanging from a construction equipment. Still to come this year are talks, family art workshops and, broadening the narrative tradition beyond Andersen, the city’s yearly enchantment celebration.

All good enchanted locations need a palace, and the island boasts over a hundred manors and stately homes throughout the region

Cycling and Exploration

As in much of the country, bicycles are the perfect means to travel around in the city and a “cycling highway” winds through the city centre. Departing from the local hotel, I ride to the complimentary waterside bathing area, then into the countryside for a circuit around Stige Island, a small island joined by a bridge to the larger island. City residents picnic here in the evening, or take pleasure in a tranquil moment angling, paddleboarding or taking a dip.

In the city, I dine at a local eatery, where the culinary offerings is based on author-inspired concepts and narratives. The verse the national ode appears at the restaurant, and owner the restaurateur shares excerpts, translated into English, as he serves every dish. Such encounters frequent in my time in Odense, the local residents appreciate narratives and it appears storytelling is continuously offered here.

Historic Estate Tours

Each wonderful magical places need a fortress, and Fyn boasts over a hundred manors and stately homes across the island. Taking day trips from Odense, I tour Egeskov Castle, Europe’s finely maintained moated palace. While much of it are accessible to the public, this historic site is also the personal dwelling of the noble family and his spouse, the princess. I ponder if she can feel a small legume through a pile of {mattresses