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One was delighted to discover that the traditional Indian blend podi – a rough grind of intensely spicy, roughly ground spices, which you combine with a little oil and use as a sauce for dosa or idli – is also known as “gunpowder” blend. It's aptly named if you were using my grandmother’s homemade dried chilies, but it would be kind to say that I’m far less daring with chilli, so here I suggest crushed chilies instead. It’s an remarkably tasty marinade for these paneer and potato skewers.

Spicy Paneer and Potato Skewers with Mint-Lime Dressing

Prepare six to eight metal or wooden skewers (if bamboo, immerse them in water for 10 minutes first).

Prep 10 min
Cook 30 min
Serves two people

Four hundred grams firm potatoes, sliced into 1.5-inch chunks
8 ounces paneer, diced into two-centimeter cubes
One teaspoon coriander seeds
Half a tsp fennel seeds
One teaspoon cumin seeds
One tsp black peppercorns
One teaspoon chilli flakes
One and a half tsp flaky sea salt, with more for serving
2 garlic pieces, peeled and grated
1-inch piece fresh ginger, prepared and minced
40ml neutral oil
1 red onion, peeled and cut into eight wedges, then sliced across

For the dressing
Lime zest and juice, freshly prepared
0.35 ounces fresh mint leaves, finely chopped
Half a tsp flaky sea salt
3.5 ounces natural yoghurt

Simmer the potatoes for nine minutes, then pour off the liquid and let them dry from steam for a minute. In the interim, put the paneer cubes in a pot of hot water for five minutes, then remove water and dry gently.

Add the cumin, coriander, and fennel seeds into a pestle and mortar or blender, add the peppercorns, chilli flakes and sea salt, then pound or blitz to a rough rubble.

Tip into a large mixing bowl with the shredded aromatics, add the oil, then carefully mix in the paneer cubes, boiled potatoes, and onion wedges to coat. Thread the vegetables and cheese on to six to eight metal or soaked wooden skewers, then move to a sheet pan and reserve for later – if desired, you can at this stage wrap and chill the skewers.

Beat all the ingredients for the dressing in a mixing bowl. Preheat the broiler to its highest setting, then bake the sticks for 5–7 minutes on each side, until the paneer is crispy and the potatoes are beginning to blacken. (This may take a different amount of time depending on the fierceness of your grill, so monitor closely, especially when cooking the first side.)

Present the skewers warm, scattered with a little more sea salt and the accompaniment for drizzling.